The Rolex Submariner reference 1680 holds a unique and coveted position in horological history. More than just a robust diver's watch, the 1680, particularly those produced for Tiffany & Co., represents a significant milestone in Rolex's evolution and the development of the iconic Submariner line. This article will explore the intricacies of the Rolex 1680, focusing on its historical significance, design features, variations, and its enduring appeal to collectors.
Rolex 1680 Review: A Pioneer in its Class
The Rolex 1680 is noteworthy for being the first Submariner to incorporate a date window, a feature that would become a hallmark of subsequent models. Prior to the 1680, Submariners relied solely on timekeeping functionality. The addition of the date complication significantly enhanced the watch's practicality and broadened its appeal beyond purely professional diving applications. This seemingly small addition represented a major step forward in the evolution of the Submariner design, demonstrating Rolex's commitment to continuous improvement and innovation.
Beyond the date window, the 1680 also marked another significant first: it was the first gold Rolex Submariner. While Rolex had previously produced watches in gold, the 1680 represented the first time the iconic Submariner design was offered in this precious metal. This gold version, available in both yellow and (rarely) white gold, catered to a more affluent clientele, showcasing both the rugged durability and the luxurious appeal of the Submariner design. The combination of gold's inherent prestige and the Submariner's legendary robustness created a truly unique and desirable timepiece.
The 1680's movement, typically the calibre 3035, is a robust and reliable workhorse, known for its accuracy and longevity. Many examples are still functioning flawlessly decades after their production, a testament to Rolex's commitment to quality and durability. The movement's performance, combined with the watch's water resistance and overall construction, solidified the 1680's reputation as a truly dependable and versatile timepiece.
The case design of the 1680, with its characteristically broad lugs and substantial crown guards, embodies the rugged aesthetic of the Submariner. The case material, whether stainless steel or gold, contributes to the watch's overall presence and feel. The combination of robust construction and elegant design is a hallmark of the 1680 and a key factor in its enduring appeal.
Rolex 1680 Bezel: A Key Identifying Feature
The bezel is a crucial element of any diver's watch, and the 1680's bezel is no exception. The early production 1680s featured a so-called "fat font" or "giraffe" bezel insert, characterized by its thicker numerals and broader markings. Later production models transitioned to a "thin font" bezel, with more slender numerals. These variations in bezel design provide valuable clues for dating and identifying specific 1680 variations. The bezel insert itself is typically made from aluminum, and its color (black being the most common) contributes to the overall aesthetic of the watch. The unidirectional rotating bezel allows divers to track elapsed time underwater, a critical safety feature. The condition of the bezel insert is a key factor in determining the overall value of a vintage 1680. Faded, chipped, or replaced bezels can significantly impact a watch's desirability and collectibility.
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